2013年7月7日星期日

Julie de Libran: the secret weapon of Louis Vuitton

 Fashion people are not like you and me. To begin with, they always look fabulous, and so effortless.

 And Julie de Libran, ladies fashion creative director at Louis Vuitton, is a fashion man par excellence.

The first time we meet in his spacious six-room apartment in the chic sixth arrondissement of Paris, she was on a sofa in dark blue velvet lounging in a part of his pre-fall collection - high non-woven satin style deep red black with a model deconstructed top, paired with casual pants black cotton.

"It is so convenient, she said, looking the fall of the handle and ridged band around its hem, more like a scientist, ego-driven with the results of an experiment of an architect was satisfied obsessed with his own work.

The apartment she shares with her husband, Stephen of Luze and seven Balthazar son is also a tribute to his good taste Parisian wardrobe.

"But you should have seen it before we moved in! Said de Libran, 41, is completed a renovation in the early months before Balthazar was born.

"He belonged to the family of Stephen and was full of flowers and hedges tapestry wallpaper.

Now, with its white walls and floors, it offers a perfect setting for flea market finds and some serious design pieces, including a pair of 1950 library Franco Albini not figure out his place in a museum.

Including a monograph Elizabeth Peyton, a catalog of Versailles copyof Jeff Koons and a book signed by David Bowie's newly acquired V & A show - your shelves are dotted with art books.

"I loved it, she said the show, she went to London especially to see." They just put on the headphones, and remember all of your personal experiences that relate his music. And it was so beautiful and tiny - her waist, hips. I was fascinated.

She stressed that the current Louis Vuitton Bowie door in his latest video "spring / summer jacket for men, she says proudly.

The other game in the room is two Burmese cats fur. "My father got it for my son, they said." It was designed to create, but you can not separate a brother and a sister.

De Libran joined Louis Vuitton, there are nearly five years as director of women's clothing and under the artistic direction of Marc Jacobs, is the designer of symbols, the line of the house of classical pieces as well as cruise pre-fall collections.

These are the (more important) need a fresh fashion update only when regular customers between collections that appear in the shops in London in July and November.

"Women want a little spice to their wardrobe throughout the year," says de Libran. "Something new and desirable.

The current pre-fall collection, they might an orange swing-back mini dress, a skirt thigh scratching tip printed silk twill, or choose double-breasted with long sleeves and shoulders boldly exaggerated: that is pulling Libran punches when it comes to a strong silhouette.

The inspiration for the collection, she said it was the 1968 film by Fran?ois Truffaut's The Bride Wore Black. "I have not seen the movie again - it's more important to work from memory to literal she said.

"So in the collection, there is a black veil over everything, and that makes the colors and creates a gloomy feeling.

There is also a proliferation of bows necklaces, tassels on shoes and jewels heels. "The love to detail is everything. Whether it a key or a silhouette.

Even within our clothing is as important as the outside - you could find men striped lining in the sleeves of the jacket. It is so stylish and fun. And then there's the tip - a constant Vuitton.

"This is part of a woman from beginning to end of life," says de Libran. "It's sexy, it's immaculate. We use all possible means, printed, flocked, Tweed and himself, of course.

The world a little singular Fashion, of the designers tends on the label to take all the credit.

But while no one's creative director Marc Jacobs, Louis Vuitton low ego (see his latest plan breasts naked coke promotions) could accuse it has always been generous to his employees.

Recognized Kim Jones, for example Louis Vuitton men's designer and ownership of the cruise lines before the fall of the Libran is made very public.

"It gave me an incredible space, and we became close through working together," she said. "But it's not like we go out to dinner all the time."

In this world, relationships are forged rather intense work schedules. "The Longest Day? Now, during the performances, we could start at 8:30 clock, work all night and not go to bed at all. Sometimes I get to go home and take a shower before the show starts at 10 clock.

Love and perfectionism she said, holding out his "coffee and plenty of water."

Jacobs de Libran and only met his interview, even if the two were mutual friends of director Sofia Coppola, the de Libran met in Paris on the "baby gym" with Balthazar.

One of the first coins, which he produces at Louis Vuitton the Sofia pocket was wonderful discreetly, the is been seen since on arm of a every celebrities Kate Moss Kirsten haze.

"I have to be myself on the way to meet Mark, who felt like a character in Sofia, she says smiling." But our first conversation, I felt like I had known for so long. We shared so many notes.

While the New York-born Jacobs became a naturalized Paris, the division of time into part-time in his own Marc Jacobs label in America and Vuitton in Paris, the journey of Libran went the other way.

When she was eight years old, his father decided to move the family to America. "He had his moment in the American dream," says de Libran "He sold our entire estate near Aix-en-Provence -. The house was in the family since the 1500s have been.

If that sounds dramatic, it may be due to the fact that he lost his father when he was 14 and his mother when he was 20 years old to be explained. Maybe the family winery runs held too many memories? "Maybe, but it was a culture shock," says de Libran.

First, they moved to New York City - "too cold for my mother" - and then to San Francisco - "too rainy and windy" - and finally to San Diego: "It was like in the south of France, with olive trees, so we stayed. '

But Southern California has proven to be a bit less fashionable destination. "It was only Beachwear, de Libran said." I could find it never, what I liked.

So my mother, who had always worn YSL, Sonia Rykiel and Chanel took me to the fabric store, and I want to design what I wanted, and I did this for all parties, balls and things. "

His father, seeing the signs, they wrote in the school of fashion, Marangoni in Milan. "Milan was difficult at first, especially the time, but I liked the Italians. Did not I go home for a year and a half.

De Libran, it turns out, comes from entrepreneurship, so aristocratic, floor. His father, once settled in California, brought bread and French pastries on the West Coast, with the Champagne Bakery and Figaro in Los Angeles.

His brother, who followed in society, is now with Starbucks, to improve its food offering.

And his sister, a resident of South Kensington is, married with the antiquarian Simon Phillips, one of the founders of Masterpiece, luxury-trade fair London Art and Antiques significant.

His mother runs a successful interior design business in North Carolina. In the meantime, the roots of the balance in the wine were not entirely lost: a product of the renowned Chateau man Briat Armagnac his property near Bordeaux.

When she graduated in 1991, Libran found a seat at Dior before moving to Versace. She was there in 1997 when Gianni Versace was murdered by a stalker in Miami.

. "It was horrible, like a shock My studio was next to his secretaries," and she began to cry, "she said Remembers." I had clients with Miami, we had a suitable one. I can not even explain how bad it was.

With Versace she met Princess Diana, only once. She was so elegant and great - I did not expect that - and incredibly nice.

And then, in 1998 she joined Prada, as you can imagine was a jump from the razzmatazz of Versace. "I led, was to establish a feminine side, she said, laughing.

"And I was for 10 ? years I learned a lot there -. Thats why I'm here today Ms. Prada and Patrizio Bertelli [her husband and the CEO of the company] are like my second parents He told me so much about.. the business side taught -, that it not only the art, it is fitting and lifestyle and everyday life.

You can not overdressed, you can not be in a suit. But she taught me creativity and the whole art. "

Now in its position of power of Louis Vuitton which all this knowledge in the collections show Libran channels the attention to detail and narrative.

"I love the history of the pre-fall collection, she said, the second time we meet at the Mercer Hotel in New York City. (This is the night before the Met Gala, and she has a Vuitton case along the entire length of the Autumn / Winter 13 collection hanging in his room.

Covered with tiny sequins, it looks like a dress Gothic Mermaid.

It also has a fridge full of fruits and vegetables Blueprint Cleanse drinks, the hottest New York is the consumption at the gala, and consumption of green tea bar limit.

In the lobby, Pedro Almodovar's not discuss Noomi Rapace Eddie Redmayne while waiting for a friend.)

"The new collection is this typical French woman with a touch of the left bank, she said, when we asked the surrounding starriness." She's happy, coffee shops, it's strong, she dresses courageous.

I look Libran into his gorgeous color oyster opera raincoat, leather pants and boots inlaid with precious stones. It could be described.

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