the virtue of being unrecognizable

New York, with Proenza Schouler’s silver pleated skirts, has turned into an all-out spring trend, as both Phoebe Philo of Céline and Clare Waight Keller of Chloé showed pleated looks in their shows on Sunday. Raf Simons also made a statement in his Dior show with pleats. PARIS FASHION WEEK. Because of the way the denim pieces were framed and distressed, with barely a trace of blue, they looked a little like sepia prints of a western sky Louis Vuitton antheia. Two devils of the ’80s, Yohji Yamamoto and Jean Paul Gaultier, approach the present very differently. With his models’ hair dusted granny gray and yanked into imbecilic spirals, Mr. Yamamoto plays it cool, as if he knows that something rebellious has gone out of fashion. Most of what he showed, especially neon layers and curvy black jackets split at the shoulders, fit the current mode for noisy colors and funny openings, but it felt more soulful.

 And it now has the virtue of being unrecognizable. With Rossy de Palma leading a panel of judges in a Left Bank nightclub, and the model Coc Coverage from in and around the Paris shows.after studying at Insead and HEC Montreal, knows how to connect and empathize with people, according to Concetta Lanciaux, a former director of human resources at LVMH who  Louis Vuitton cosmic blossommentored him while she worked as an aide to his father. She now runs her own advisory firm. “He has a real talent for image and communication,” Lanciaux said of Antoine, who became Vuitton’s director of communications in 2006, the same year he was named to LVMH’s board. His print ad campaign for Vuitton featuring Mikhail Gorbachev, Catherine Deneuve, Steffi Graff and Andre Agassi, won a Cannes Lion advertising award in 2008. Since becoming chairman of Berluti, Antoine has hired a high-profile designer and acquired a Parisian tailor in a bid to make the shoemaker a menswear rival to Ermenegildo Zegna SpA and Brioni. He’s also spent heavily on marketing and opened stores from Miami to Shanghai.

 Arnault in January said he expects his eldest son to lift Louis Vuitton cruiseBerluti revenue to “several hundred million euros,” though he set no deadline. The brand, which is unprofitable, had sales of about 90 million euros in 2012, Berenberg estimates. Ms. Waight Keller’s collection was exceedingly calm and pretty, in a season that has tended to be brassy. She also insisted on a summery attitude — no confusion about seasons here. Her line was long, with her crinkled pleated and silk cloqué dresses flowing over the body. She included separates like soft, off-white shorts in a rose-gold dot pattern that were knotted at the sides and worn with a sheer sweater, floaty dresses tied at the arms, and more crinkled pleats in Persian and navy blue. The desert sand tones that opened the show maybe looked drab, but by next summer they could seem an oasis from all the intense color.