survey of the "senators" of Italian fashion

      
      MILAN, Italy - For several years, the international fashion industry has been on the decline of the Milan Fashion Week and the waning influence of Italian fashion as a whole was whispering. In fact, with rising asset Fashion Weeks in New York City (commercial hotspot fashion world) and London (creative hotspot industry), and remains a priority of Paris, the most important fashion capital of the world for business and creativity, Milan suffered a kind of existential crisis.

What is the Italian fashion really are? And how its once dominant position can be restored?

In recent months, the Italian heavyweights such as Giorgio Armani and Donatella Versace aired their views on this subject. But a press conference on Sunday morning, at which several leading figures in the creation of the Italian fashion came together to discuss the future of Italian fashion, the first public signal was that they finally took notice A problem creeping has past in the years.

Her first major action was to appoint new members of the Board of Directors of the Camera Nazionale della Moda brand refresh Italiana (CNMI), including big guns like Gildo Zegna, Patrizio Bertelli and Diego della Valle. In a significant gesture of power described, each new member a new strategic issues The Council adopted to guide the direction of the Italian brands in Italy, made the unit and the connections to the lifestyle, art and culture.

First up was a long-time president, Mario Boselli, the highly respected introduced as the new Vicar Vice President CNMI Patrizio Bertelli, CEO of Prada Group. Mr. Bertelli said in the name of the new Italy, "senators fashion" and said that despite the messages remain on the contrary, the foundation of the Italian fashion system strong.

"There are no major problems and challenges of Italian fashion today. Excluding Italy, the system of the entire fashion would be in chaos," he said, referring to the essential role that play factories, Italian manufacturer in producing luxury products for global brands "Made in Italy ".

Mr. Gildo Zegna, CEO of Ermenegildo Zegna and new Vice President of the CNMI that fashion is an important pillar of the Italian economy, which employs more than a million people. The "name of the game is the unity," Mr. Zegna said, noting that cooperation with other relevant institutions of the Italian fashion - Pitti Immaggine, Milano Unica, Alta Moda - is a priority.

Finally, Diego Della Valle, president of death Group, another new addition to the CNMI said the device was not effectively communicate with the press and their counterparts in other countries. "It's not that complicated," he began, "at least we have access to our country. We should be able to show you how this country is something special. We want to act as an ambassador."

But immediately after the speech planned cracks on the surface of the new strategy began to appear. One by one, beginning with Godfrey Deeny, Fashion Editor at large of Figaro, the members of the international fashion press asked specific questions about the major issues that have been raised by members of the CNMI assembled this what cumbersome to some, and sometimes heated exchanges.

Deeny noted that the term "unit" sounded a little hollow without the participation of Dolce & Gabbana and Giorgio Armani, which had both decided to join the CNMI. According to Mr. Boselli, gentlemen Dolce & Gabbana chose not a recent invitation to the organization, a position they have held for the last 12 years come to accept. Boselli went on to say that he believes that the position of Mr. Armani will soon change remained, however, the CNMI had the first of two unspecified conditions of Mr. Armani met as a condition for participation. In the past, Mr. Armani has said he would not have brought their shows in the CNMI to brands such as Valentino and Miu Miu, to return to Milan. And after the show Monday Emporio Armani Men Armani held his land. "Nothing has changed and I'm not attached to the camera"

Suzy Menkes was next to take a hit, saying that the CNMI unfortunately was out of step with the digital age. The group responded with clear statistics about the traffic and said the site was now shows pictures online. Never mind sharp, Menkes asked why no one had emailed him about these new developments, re-emphasized a lack of communication with the outside world CNMI bubble of Italian fashion. As of today, the time of the Milan Fashion Week should always be downloaded in PDF format.

Then a journalist for Agence France Press is said that the new board is far from young and no women had been invited to speak (most of the members are men in their fifties and sixties). The panel bristles observation and from there things in scrappy defense reactions.

There was not a young designer at the press conference on Sunday and the problems of young designers from Italy have faced either in the prepared remarks or press release addressed later. As I see it, this is the biggest problem of the Italian fashion that lacks a support system to systematically identify, nurture and invest in the next generation of Italian luxury brands. More than art and culture, it is the young designers, the new energy to fashion week in Milan can bring dominated by big brands. As my friend Alex Fury noted in his review of the Dolce & Gabbana show this weekend, "Milano is dominated by companies whose grip on the industry has in place for decades. Sometimes handle feels more than a self-hold, strangled oxygen to new talents. "

So when my turn to ask the Board was, I focused on their plans to support young designers. Mr. Boselli said that it was in fact one of the priorities of the CNMI and that from this September, young designers are no longer relegated impossible time intervals at the beginning and end of the Milan Fashion Week. A space dedicated presentation can be created to demonstrate their talent and take a page from the playbook of Mr. Armani, meet the CNMI young designers with experienced designers who can provide mentoring and other support, such as Armani has with the young Menswear designer Andrea Pompilio this season, giving him. possible, show room in their own fashion show

These are useful and promising plans, but the omission of the highlights of their official releases, Camera Nazionale della Moda Italiana seemed to say that the central question before not mind. Italian culture and craftsmanship "Made in Italy" are obviously a very important part of the future of fashion in Italy. But young brands and designers, they are only with the designers from Italy and outside mastodons companies currently dominate the Italian fashion system to ship.

It is therefore a great number of fashion magnates of the country came together to the challenges faced by the Italian fashion is certainly a step in the right direction. Like Natalie Massenet CFB or Diane von Furstenberg of the CFDA - - but in the end, this observer at least that's what is lacking, especially in the countryside of the Italian fashion, a leader with a clear and inspiring vision is a concrete that all large and hopefuls can kahunas to collect.